Cosmetic formulations are evolving faster than the marketing campaigns that accompany them. Between the tightening of French regulations on “clean” claims and the emergence of new stabilized active ingredients, this season’s beauty trends deserve a technical reading rather than a superficial overview.
Cosmetic claims and the French regulatory framework: what changes for your products
The ARPP updated its “Sustainable Development” Recommendation in November 2023, with direct consequences for brand communication in France. Vague environmental claims (“green,” “eco-friendly”) applied to cosmetics are now subject to increased scrutiny.
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The DGCCRF issued specific warnings in October 2023 regarding “free” claims (free from parabens, free from silicones) when they imply an unproven superiority of the product. Specifically, a serum that states “free from parabens” when its category has never contained them misleads the consumer.
We observe that several brands are reformulating their packaging to comply with these requirements, replacing “free from” mentions with positive descriptions of the actual composition. This is both a formulatory and communicational shift, redefining how a daily beauty routine is presented. Professionals who follow these developments will find regular analyses on the beauty page of Beauté Chic, where product innovations are examined from this regulatory perspective.
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Cosmetic formulas with stabilized actives: the real technical advancement
The “natural versus synthetic” debate masks a more concrete issue: the stability of the active ingredient in its matrix. A retinol encapsulated in a lipid system cannot be compared to a free retinol in an aqueous phase, even if both display the same concentration on the label.
The stabilization of actives determines their actual effectiveness on the skin, much more than their botanical or synthetic origin. Recent formulas use vectors (liposomes, cyclodextrins, reverse emulsions) that protect the active molecule until it penetrates the skin.
Three criteria allow for the evaluation of the technical quality of a skincare product:
- The type of encapsulation or vectorization mentioned on the INCI list, indicating whether the active is protected from oxidation
- The position of the key active in the ingredient list, reflecting its actual concentration in the formula
- The announced pH of the product, which conditions the activity of certain actives like ascorbic acid (vitamin C) or AHAs
Brands that publish this technical data on their product sheets offer exploitable transparency. Those that settle for a marketing percentage (“enriched with 95% natural origin ingredients”) say nothing about the product’s performance.
Minimalist beauty routine: reducing products without sacrificing results
Skinimalism (a contraction of “skin” and “minimalism”) is gaining ground in professional protocols, not just as an editorial trend. Reducing the number of steps in a daily routine decreases the risk of skin sensitization due to the accumulation of surfactants and preservatives.
Three to four well-formulated products cover the needs of healthy skin: pH-appropriate cleanser, targeted serum, occlusive moisturizer or emollient, sun protection. Each additional product must address an identified need, not a marketing trend.
We recommend checking the compatibility of actives between successive layers. Layering a niacinamide-based serum and an AHA exfoliant in the same evening routine can cause redness in reactive skin. The order of application (from the most fluid to the most occlusive) and the time spacing between certain actives remain fundamentals that mainstream beauty advice often overlooks.
Hybrid makeup and tinted skincare: formulation and limits
Foundations enriched with hyaluronic acid or niacinamide represent the fastest-growing category in makeup. The promise: makeup that treats the skin while covering it.
The technical limit is real. The concentration of active ingredients in a foundation remains much lower than that of a dedicated serum. A “hyaluronic acid” foundation provides immediate hydrating comfort (film-forming effect) but does not replace a moisturizer applied to bare skin.
The interest in these hybrid products lies elsewhere:
- They simplify the morning routine by merging two steps, reducing application time and the number of layers on the skin
- Their lightweight textures are suitable for skin that cannot tolerate the layering of serum-cream-primer-foundation
- They allow for adjustable coverage, from “no makeup” to a more polished finish, with a single product
For skin with specific issues (active acne, rosacea, melasma), hybrid makeup does not eliminate the need for a separate skincare protocol. Skin treatment is done before makeup, not during.
Diversification of standards in cosmetics: beyond the discourse
Since 2021, Unilever has removed the word “normal” from its beauty packaging as part of its Positive Beauty program. L’Oréal and Sephora have followed suit with campaigns incorporating acne-prone skin, scars, and vitiligo in their visuals.
The concrete impact on formulations remains to be nuanced. Adapting a range of products to a diversity of skin tones requires expanding pigment palettes, but also rethinking bases (emollients, UV filters) so they work on varied phototypes without leaving white marks or altering the shade.
Mineral sunscreen filters remain the main weak point on darker skin, with a whitish “cast” effect that current formulations struggle to eliminate completely. New-generation organic filters offer better cosmetic performance in this regard, provided one accepts a compromise on the “100% mineral” positioning that some brands claim.
Everyday beauty hinges on these technical details: understanding what a product actually does, verifying that its claims hold up against the regulatory framework, and adapting one’s routine to their skin rather than to current trends.